What to Do When Something Breaks: A No-Panic Guide for Homeowners

Before Anything Breaks: Know Your House

The best time to prepare for a home emergency is before it happens. Take 15 minutes this weekend to locate these things. Seriously — do it now and future-you will be grateful.

• Main water shut-off valve: Usually near the street (in a ground box) or where the water line enters your home (basement, crawlspace, or utility closet). Know how to turn it. If it's a gate valve, turn clockwise. If it's a ball valve, turn the handle perpendicular to the pipe.
• Gas shut-off valve: Located at the gas meter, usually on the side of your house. You'll need a wrench to turn it. Keep one nearby (some people zip-tie an adjustable wrench to the meter).
• Electrical panel: Know where your breaker box is and which breaker controls what. Label them if they aren't already.
• Water heater: Know where it is and how to turn it off (gas valve or breaker).

Now let's talk about what to do when things go wrong.

Burst Pipe or Major Water Leak

Immediate Steps (First 5 Minutes)

• Turn off the main water supply immediately. Every second counts — a burst pipe can dump 4–8 gallons per minute. That's 400+ gallons in an hour.
• If the leak is near electrical outlets or your breaker panel, shut off electricity to that area from the breaker box. Do not touch any electrical fixtures in standing water.
• Open faucets to drain remaining water from the pipes and relieve pressure.
• Move valuables, electronics, and furniture away from the water. Start mopping or use a wet/dry vacuum.
• Take photos of all damage for your insurance claim.

Who to Call

An emergency plumber for the pipe repair ($150–$500 for most burst pipe repairs, more if it's behind a wall or in a slab). If there's significant water damage, call a water mitigation company within the first 24 hours — mold can start growing in 24–48 hours.

Estimated Repair Costs

• Pipe repair: $150–$500
• Water mitigation (drying, dehumidification): $1,500–$5,000
• Drywall/floor repair if damaged: $1,000–$10,000+
• Mold remediation (if you waited too long): $2,000–$15,000

How to Prevent It

Insulate exposed pipes in unheated areas (garage, crawlspace, attic). During freezing weather, let faucets drip and open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls. Know the age of your pipes — galvanized steel pipes (common in pre-1970s homes) corrode from the inside and are ticking time bombs after 40–50 years.

AC Dies in the Middle of Summer

Immediate Steps

• Don't panic. Your house will stay habitable for hours, even in extreme heat. Close blinds and curtains on sun-facing windows to block solar heat gain.
• Check the thermostat — make sure it's set to "cool" and the temperature is set below room temp. Replace the batteries if it's blank.
• Check the air filter. A completely clogged filter can cause the system to shut down on a safety limit. Replace it and wait 30 minutes before restarting.
• Check the breaker panel. AC systems often have two breakers (one for the indoor unit, one for the outdoor unit). Reset them if tripped.
• Check the outdoor unit. Is it running? Is it making unusual noises? Is the area around it clear of debris? Make sure nothing is blocking airflow.
• Check the condensate drain line. If clogged, many systems have a safety switch that shuts down the AC to prevent water damage. Clear it with a wet/dry vacuum at the exterior drain point.

Who to Call

If the basic checks don't solve it, call an HVAC technician. During peak summer, expect wait times of 1–3 days for non-emergency calls. If you have elderly family members, infants, or pets, emphasize the urgency — most companies prioritize these situations.

Estimated Repair Costs

• Capacitor replacement: $150–$400
• Refrigerant recharge: $200–$600
• Blower motor: $400–$900
• Compressor replacement: $1,500–$3,500
• Full system replacement: $5,000–$15,000+

Survival Tips While You Wait

Use portable fans and box fans to create airflow. Hang a wet sheet in front of a fan for a DIY evaporative cooler. Avoid using the oven or stove — they add significant heat to your home. Stay hydrated. If you have a basement, camp out there — it's typically 10–15°F cooler than the main floor.

How to Prevent It

Get an annual AC tune-up every spring ($80–$150). Change your filter regularly. Don't ignore strange noises — a rattling compressor or squealing belt is a warning sign, not background noise. If your system is 12+ years old, start budgeting for a replacement. You can use Electrum Home to get a scoped estimate of what a new system would cost, so you're not blindsided when the time comes.

Furnace Dies in Winter

Immediate Steps

• Check the thermostat first. Switch it from "auto" to "heat" manually. Replace batteries. Try setting the temperature 5°F above room temp.
• Check the furnace filter. A clogged filter is the #1 cause of furnace shutdowns.
• Check the pilot light (if gas furnace with standing pilot). If it's out, follow the relighting instructions on the furnace panel. If it won't stay lit, the thermocouple may be bad — that's a technician job.
• Check the breaker. Even gas furnaces need electricity for the blower and ignition.
• Check the gas valve on the furnace. It should be in the "on" position.
• Look for error codes — most modern furnaces have a small LED window that blinks diagnostic codes. Google your furnace model + the blink pattern.

Who to Call

An HVAC technician who does heating. In winter emergencies, many companies offer 24/7 service but charge after-hours premiums ($100–$200 extra for nights/weekends).

Estimated Repair Costs

• Ignitor replacement: $150–$400
• Flame sensor cleaning: $80–$200
• Blower motor: $400–$900
• Heat exchanger (cracked): $1,500–$3,000 (often worth replacing the whole furnace at this point)
• New furnace installation: $3,500–$8,000

Keeping Warm While You Wait

Close off unused rooms and gather everyone in one space. Use space heaters safely — keep them 3 feet from anything flammable and never leave them unattended. Layer blankets. If you have a fireplace, use it (make sure the damper is open). Open curtains on south-facing windows during the day for solar heat, close them at night for insulation.

Critical safety note: Never use your oven, gas stove, or outdoor grill for heating. Carbon monoxide poisoning kills dozens of people every year during winter emergencies. Make sure your CO detectors are working.

How to Prevent It

Annual furnace maintenance in the fall. Replace filters every 1–3 months. Listen for unusual sounds — banging, squealing, or clicking means something needs attention. If your furnace is 18+ years old, it's living on borrowed time.

Extended Power Outage

Immediate Steps

• Check if it's just your house or the whole neighborhood. Look outside — if neighbors have lights, check your breaker panel for a tripped main breaker.
• Report the outage to your utility company via their app or automated phone line.
• Unplug sensitive electronics (computers, TVs, gaming consoles) to protect from power surges when electricity is restored.
• Keep the refrigerator and freezer closed. A full freezer stays safe for 48 hours; a half-full freezer for 24 hours. A closed refrigerator keeps food safe for about 4 hours.
• If you have a generator, set it up outdoors only, at least 20 feet from windows and doors. Generator exhaust contains lethal carbon monoxide.

Estimated Costs

• Portable generator: $500–$2,000 (powers essentials)
• Whole-home standby generator (installed): $8,000–$20,000
• Battery backup system (Tesla Powerwall, etc.): $10,000–$18,000 installed
• Food replacement after extended outage: $200–$600

How to Prevent Major Impact

Invest in a battery-powered or hand-crank radio for emergency info. Keep flashlights and batteries accessible (not buried in the garage). Consider a whole-home surge protector ($200–$500 installed at the panel) to protect all your electronics when power returns. If you lose power frequently, a standby generator or battery system is worth the investment.

Roof Leak

Immediate Steps

• Contain the water. Put buckets under drips. If water is pooling on the ceiling and creating a bulge, poke a small hole in the center with a screwdriver to let it drain into a bucket — this prevents the whole ceiling from collapsing.
• Move furniture and valuables out of the affected area.
• If you can safely access the attic, trace the leak to its source. Water often travels along rafters and sheathing, so the entry point may be far from where it drips inside.
• Take photos for insurance.
• Do not get on the roof during rain or when it's wet. Roofing professionals have proper safety equipment.

Who to Call

A licensed roofing contractor. For active leaks during storms, some roofers offer emergency tarping services ($200–$500) to stop the immediate damage until a permanent repair can be made.

Estimated Repair Costs

• Emergency tarp: $200–$500
• Minor repair (damaged shingles, flashing): $300–$1,000
• Moderate repair (section replacement): $1,000–$3,000
• Interior drywall/paint repair: $500–$2,000
• Full roof replacement: $8,000–$25,000+

How to Prevent It

Get a roof inspection every 2–3 years ($200–$400), especially if your roof is over 15 years old. Clean gutters twice a year — clogged gutters cause water to back up under the roof edge. Trim tree branches that overhang the roof. After major storms, do a visual check from the ground for missing or damaged shingles.

Sewer Backup

Immediate Steps

• Stop using all water in the house. Don't flush toilets, run sinks, or use the washing machine. Any water you send down the drain can make the backup worse.
• If sewage is backing up into your home, avoid contact. It contains harmful bacteria. Wear rubber boots and gloves if you must walk through it.
• Turn off your HVAC system if sewage is near vents or returns. You don't want it circulating airborne bacteria through your ductwork.
• Open windows for ventilation.
• Document everything with photos and video.

Who to Call

A plumber or drain specialist to clear the blockage. If the backup caused significant contamination, you'll also need a biohazard cleanup company — don't try to clean sewage yourself, as it requires proper disinfection and often removal of affected building materials.

Estimated Repair Costs

• Drain snaking: $200–$500
• Hydro jetting (severe clogs): $350–$800
• Sewer line repair/replacement: $2,500–$15,000
• Professional biohazard cleanup: $2,000–$10,000
• Flooring/drywall replacement: $1,000–$5,000+

How to Prevent It

Never flush anything besides toilet paper — no wipes (even "flushable" ones), feminine products, or paper towels. Don't pour grease down kitchen drains. Get your sewer line camera-inspected every 3–5 years ($200–$400), especially if you have old clay pipes or large trees near your sewer line. Tree roots are the #1 cause of sewer line failures. A backwater valve ($300–$800 installed) can prevent city sewer backups from entering your home.

Gas Smell

Immediate Steps

• This is the one emergency where you act first and think later.
• Do NOT turn on or off any lights, electrical switches, or appliances. A single spark can cause an explosion.
• Do NOT use your phone inside the house.
• Get everyone (including pets) out of the house immediately.
• Leave the door open as you exit.
• Once outside and at a safe distance (at least 100 feet), call 911 and your gas company's emergency line.
• Do not re-enter until the gas company or fire department gives the all-clear.

Who to Call

911 first, then your gas utility's emergency line. Gas companies respond to leak reports for free, 24/7. They'll locate the leak, make it safe, and let you know next steps. If the leak is on your side of the meter (inside your home or your gas lines), you'll need a licensed plumber or gas fitter for the repair.

Estimated Repair Costs

• Gas line repair: $200–$800
• Appliance connector replacement: $100–$300
• Gas valve replacement: $200–$500

How to Prevent It

Install natural gas detectors on every floor ($30–$50 each). Have your gas furnace and water heater inspected annually. If you smell gas near an appliance, check that the pilot light is lit. If you smell gas with no obvious source, treat it as an emergency. Natural gas has mercaptan added to give it that rotten-egg smell — if you notice it even faintly, don't dismiss it.

Building Your Emergency Readiness Kit

You don't need a bunker. You just need a short list and 30 minutes:

• A folder (physical or digital) with: insurance policy numbers, your agent's phone number, photos/video of your home's current condition for claims purposes, warranty info for major systems.
• A "who to call" list: plumber, electrician, HVAC tech, roofer, general handyman, insurance agent. Having these numbers before you need them means you're not desperately Googling at 2 AM.
• Basic tools: adjustable wrench (for gas shut-off), flashlight, wet/dry vacuum, duct tape, plastic sheeting, buckets.
• Emergency supplies: bottled water (1 gallon per person per day for 3 days), flashlights, batteries, first aid kit, battery-powered phone charger.

If you want to get ahead of emergencies instead of just reacting to them, Electrum Home can help you scope out preventive projects — things like HVAC tune-ups, water heater replacements, or re-roofing — so you have real cost estimates and can budget on your own terms instead of panic-paying at 2 AM.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I call my insurance company for every home emergency?

Not every time. Insurance is for sudden, unexpected events — a burst pipe, storm damage, a fire. It's not for maintenance issues like a worn-out furnace or a slow drain. As a rule of thumb, if the damage exceeds your deductible by at least 2–3x, file a claim. For smaller issues, paying out of pocket avoids potential premium increases. Document everything regardless — you never know when you'll need the records.

How do I find a trustworthy emergency contractor at 2 AM?

This is why the "who to call" list matters so much. In a pinch, ask neighbors for recommendations, check Google reviews (filter by recent and look for emergency-specific mentions), and always confirm licensing before letting anyone in your home. Avoid anyone who shows up unsolicited after a disaster — storm chasers and emergency scammers are a real problem.

What home emergencies does homeowner's insurance typically cover?

Standard policies cover sudden and accidental damage: burst pipes (but not slow leaks you ignored), storm damage, fire, fallen trees, vandalism, and theft. They typically do not cover: flooding (requires separate flood insurance), sewer backups (often an optional rider), earthquake damage, gradual wear and tear, or pest damage. Read your policy — the exclusions section is more important than the coverage section.

When is a home emergency actually dangerous vs. just inconvenient?

Immediately dangerous: gas leak (explosion/fire risk), electrical issues with burning smell or sparking (fire risk), carbon monoxide detector alarm (poisoning risk), structural damage or flooding near electrical systems. In these cases, evacuate first, call 911, deal with repair costs later. Everything else — AC failure, minor leaks, power outage — is uncomfortable but not life-threatening for healthy adults. Prioritize safety for vulnerable household members: elderly, infants, pets, and anyone with medical conditions.

Is it worth getting a home warranty for emergencies?

Home warranties ($400–$700/year) cover repair or replacement of major systems and appliances. They can be worth it for older homes with aging systems, but read the fine print carefully. Many warranties have coverage caps ($1,500–$2,000 per incident), exclusions for pre-existing conditions, and a reputation for slow service. They're not a substitute for proper maintenance and insurance — think of them as a supplemental safety net.